Alps most accessible 4000

Alps most accessible 4000

5 peaks to start with

Alps most accessible 4000

Reaching a 4000-meter summit is an extraordinary experience for any mountaineer. When you’re just starting out, it’s important to choose an accessible and adapted route to your level of experience. So we’ve selected 5 summits that are particularly ideal for beginning!

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Alps most accessible 4000

Ascension Grand Paradis - Italie. Grand Paradiso ascent - Italy.

Gran Paradiso is a 4061 meter peak in the Italian Alps. In fact, it’s the highest peak entirely in Italy!

This ascent is ideal for a first mountaineering experience. Indeed, this peak is reputed to be one of the most technically accessible 4000m.

The ascent via the normal route is on glacier, so you’ll need to be accompanied by a guide and to be roped, especially if you’ve never climbed with crampons before.

Discover our Gran Paradiso ascent, 2 days guided just here 👈

So on the first day, we start from the village of Pont-Valsavarenche to reach the refuge, where we can spend the night.

Then, the next day, we begin the ascent up a path and then a moraine before reaching the glacier. The last few meters are on mixed terrain, even rocky depending on conditions. Allow 4 to 6 hours walking to reach the summit.

🕞 Duration: 2 days.
🏔️ Ascent: approx. 2050 m from Pont-Valsavarenche.
🥵 Difficulty: rated easy by the normal route; rated more difficult on the final meters (mixed and rocky terrain).
🌤 Recommended period: June to early September.

Gravir le Mont-Blanc, comment bien préparer son ascension ? How to prepare for a Mont Blanc ascent?

The Mont Blanc, in the heart of Mont Blanc range is the culminating point of the Alps. It is located between Haute-Savoie (France) and the Aosta Valley (Italy). At 4810 m, it is the highest summit in Europe!

The route you choose to climb Mont Blanc will determine your preparation and, above all, the level of difficulty of the ascent. Indeed, ratings can range from “Peu Difficile” (PD) = low difficult, to “Très Difficile” (TD) = very difficult, or even “Extrêmement Difficile” (TD+) = extremely difficult.

There are therefore 5 possible normal routes:

  • By Les 3 Monts (PD+)
  • By Les Grands Mulets (PD+)
  • Via the Goûter route or l’Arête Des Bosses (PD-)
  • By Bionnassay traverse (AD)
  • Via Les Aiguilles Grises – voie du Pape (Italian normal route) (PD+)

Climbing Mont Blanc via the normal route is not technically difficult, but it’s important to keep in mind that this is a high-altitude mountaineering itinerary. In addition to being in very good physical condition, you need to be acclimatized to the altitude and used to walking with crampons in sometimes mixed terrain (rock + snow 🏔). Taking a training course (like this one 👈) to prepare for it gives you every chance of succeeding!

🕞 Duration: 2 or 3 days.
🏔️ Ascent: approx. 2500 m from Bellevue cable car (Les Houches, France).
🥵 Difficulty: rated not very difficult via the normal Goûter route.
🌤 Recommended period: late May to mid-September.

We’ve also written an article/training plan for climbing Mont Blanc that might interest you!

Les 4000 les plus accessibles des Alpes : le Dôme des Écrins. The most accessible 4000m in the Alps: Dôme des Écrins.

Located on the Isère and Hautes-Alpes borders, the Dome des Écrins dominates the massif of the same name, and is a superb classic of the most accessible 4000m climbs!

Climbing the Dome des Écrins via the normal route doesn’t present any technical difficulties, provided you’re in good physical condition. For beginners, a number of introductory courses on the Glacier Blanc can help you get familiar with the high mountains and acclimatize your body to the altitude.

On the first day, departure is from Vallouise. From there, a path joins the terminal tongue of the Glacier Blanc and continues to the refuge, where you can spend the night.

The next day, to reach the summit, we cross the glacier below the Barre des Écrins.

🕞 Duration: 2 days.
🏔️ Ascent: approx. 2200 m from Vallouise-Pelvoux.
🥵 Difficulty: rated easy in spring; rated not very difficult in summer. The easy rating corresponds to a good conditions route, rather in late spring. In summer, as the snow melts and the glacier opens up, passage through the crevasses and rimaye becomes more difficult. At the end of the summer season or with bad conditions, the rating then tends towards not very difficult.
🌤 Recommended period: June to September.

Les 4000m les plus accessibles des Alpes : Le Bishorn 🇨🇭 4 153 m. The most accessible 4000m in the Alps: The Bishorn 🇨🇭 4,153 m.

Located in Switzerland, the Bishorn is a superb summit and one of the most accessible 4000 meter peaks in the Alps! Its ascent presents no particular technical difficulties via the normal route.

You start from the village of Zinal and climb to the Tracuit hut on the first day. Then, on day 2, you can start climbing to the summit, then return down to Zinal.

The climb can be completed in 2 days, but we advise you to allow an extra day before the ascent, to acclimatize to the altitude and take time to discover the Val d’Anniviers.

🕞 Duration: 2 or 3 days.
🏔️ Ascent: approx. 2500 m from Zinal.
🥵 Difficulty: rated easy.
🌤 Recommended period: June to September.

Les 4000 les plus accessibles des Alpes : La Pointe Gnifetti 🇮🇹🇨🇭 4 554 m. The most accessible 4000m in the Alps: Pointe Gnifetti 🇮🇹🇨🇭 4,554 m.

Located in both Italy and Switzerland, the Monte Rosa massif is renowned for its many peaks rising above 4000 meters. There are several routes to choose from, but if you’re looking for an easy route, the Punta Gnifetti might be a good option.

By taking the Punta Indren cable car from Staffal, your ascent starts at 3280 metres. Once up there, you can reach the refuge.

The following day, from the Città di Mantova refuge, you’ll have to climb the Col de Lys (4152m). It’s a 4/5 hour walk to the summit of Punta Gnifetti.

At the summit, perched at 4554m, you’ll be welcomed inside Europe’s highest refuge, the Cabane Margherita. After recovering your energy and admiring the panoramic views of Monte Rosa’s most beautiful peaks, you’ll take the same route down to the Città di Mantova refuge. Finally, you’ll have to catch the cable car back to Staffal.

Over the course of 3 days, you may also wish to climb Punta Giordani, another 4000 meter peak on Monte Rosa, also on an easy itinerary. A great way to acclimatize to altitude!

Discover here our 4-days itinerary to visit the Monte Rosa range. A condensed version of the complete Monte Rosa circuit! In our experience, it’s the best way to get an overview of what the region has to offer. Magnificent views, picturesque refuges and some beautiful 4,000-meter peaks.

🕞 Duration: 2 or 3 days.
🏔️ Ascent: approx. 1270 m from the Punta Indren cable car.
🥵 Difficulty: rated easy.
🌤 Recommended period: June to September.

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A program of preparation and acclimatization, with the ultimate goal of climbing Mont Blanc!

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