Trip report · Dévoluy
Pic de Bure, Desmaison Route
On 1 August 2026 we climbed the South Pillar of the Pic de Bure (2,709 m) via the Desmaison route — first climbed in 1961 and still one of the great outings in the Dévoluy. The story of a demanding day, a little history, and what you need to plan your own.
The Pic de Bure, a summit of the Dévoluy
At 2,709 metres, the Pic de Bure towers over the Dévoluy massif, between the Trièves and the Champsaur. A vast summit plateau, a South face that rises in a single sweep above the combes, and — engraved on an orientation table set right at the edge — the whole line of the Écrins on the horizon. A summit you see from afar and never forget.
The Dévoluy has a reputation: limestone that doesn’t forgive approximation. Rock that can be delicate, routes that demand careful reading, real commitment. That is exactly what makes its great routes worth it, and mountaineering the way we like it.
The Desmaison route, ahead of its time
The South Pillar is 600 metres of climbing straight into the sky. The route bears the name of René Desmaison, one of the great French alpinists of the 20th century, who opened it in September 1961 with André Bertrand and Yvon Pollet-Villard.
You have to picture the era to grasp how bold it was. In 1961, drawing a direct line up a face this size, on rock with a fearsome reputation, with the gear of the day: it was a gamble. The first ascensionists read the wall where others saw only a rampart. Sixty years on, the Desmaison route is still a benchmark: TD+, 6a obligatory, an atmosphere that never lets up. The detailed topo is available on Camptocamp.
- Varied climbing: corners, cracks, exposed traverses, steps.
- Sparse in-situ protection: you need to protect yourself.
- The crest of the pillar almost throughout, with air on both sides.
A thought, too, for our friend and mentor Georges Payot. At the time of the first ascent he helped the team by carrying gear to the foot of the wall, but couldn’t join the climb itself: he was teaching at the ENSA. Years later, in 2009, Georges came back and climbed the route with Riri — he was over 70. To climb here is to follow in those footsteps.
Our climb, 1 August 2026
The Pic de Bure had been on my list for decades. A few years earlier I’d had to turn back: unstable weather sent me down to the valley. I was waiting for the chance. It came with a visit to Riri, my childhood friend. With my two sons, there we were, four of us, in two rope teams: Riri and Nono, Tommy and me.
The approach: 6 a.m. from the Cabane des Avalanches
We left the Cabane des Avalanches at 6 a.m., head-torches on. About an hour and a half of walking to reach the foot of the pillar, just as the South face caught the first light. We started climbing at 7:30.
On the pillar
The wall is impressive: steep, dolomitic. In-situ protection is sparse, and route-finding isn’t always obvious. Better to have some experience and a solid technical margin — here, the 5c pitches aren’t given away. We moved together on the easy sections, more watchful as soon as it steepened.
Huge respect to the first ascensionists, for the commitment and the elegance of the line. Nothing here is ever a given: the mountain decides — and that’s exactly why we love it. Every belay gains a little more sky.
The summit, at 2 p.m.
Summit at 2 p.m. Arriving is pure joy. The top is flat, almost lunar, in a resolutely mineral setting. On this 1st of August, barely two or three hikers. The astronomy observatory and its antennas add to the feeling of having set foot on another planet — unless it’s just us, heads elsewhere after such a day.
The descent
Back to the car at 4 p.m. via the Combe Ratin. A quick descent, but one that still needs care before the plateau lets you relax. What a day.
Route facts
| Summit | Pic de Bure, 2,709 m — Dévoluy (Hautes-Alpes, France) |
| Route | South Pillar, Desmaison route |
| First ascent | September 1961 — R. Desmaison, A. Bertrand, Y. Pollet-Villard |
| Climbing height | ~600 m |
| Grade | TD+, 6a obligatory (the 5c pitches aren’t given) |
| Total ascent | ~1,200 m |
| Timing (our day) | Cabane des Avalanches 6 a.m. · start 7:30 · summit 2 p.m. · car 4 p.m. |
| Approach | From the Cabane des Avalanches (~1 h 30) |
| Descent | Via the Combe Ratin |
| Rock | Dolomitic Dévoluy limestone, demanding |
| Gear | Sparse in-situ protection: nuts and cams needed, double ropes, slings, helmet. A good margin above 5c. |
At Nuyama, we approach a route like this the way we approach all high-mountain climbing: with preparation, margin and respect for the terrain. That’s the heart of who we are and how we guide. If mountaineering draws you in, let’s talk about your project.
Frequently asked questions
What is the grade of the Desmaison route on the Pic de Bure?
The Desmaison route (South Pillar of the Pic de Bure) is graded TD+, with obligatory 6a climbing. The 5c pitches are not given away, so a solid technical margin and experience on adventurous terrain are recommended.
How long does it take to climb the South Pillar of the Pic de Bure?
Allow roughly 6 to 7 hours of climbing for the 600 metres of the pillar. On our day, the full outing ran from 6 a.m. (leaving the Cabane des Avalanches) to 4 p.m. (back at the car).
How do you reach the foot of the route?
The approach starts from the Cabane des Avalanches, about 1 h 30 of walking to the base of the pillar. The descent is via the Combe Ratin.
Who first climbed the Desmaison route?
The South Pillar was first climbed in September 1961 by René Desmaison, André Bertrand and Yvon Pollet-Villard — a very bold line for its time on Dévoluy limestone.
Read also: Lagginhorn by the South Ridge — a fine Valais ridge climb (4,010 m)
Nuyama is a mountain-adventure agency, born in Chamonix in 2019. You don’t consume a destination here: you live a crossing. From big routes to committing summits, we go with those who want to experience something real, guided by people rooted in this terrain for years. Discover who we are and mountaineering with Nuyama.