Trip report · Chamonix Aiguilles
Aiguille de l’M, the Couzy route
Heatwave summer, everyone’s after cool air… and as it happens, the north face of the Aiguille de l’M (2,844 m) never catches the sun. Off to the Couzy route, with Tommy and Louis, on 8 August 2026. Fine granite in the shade, never extreme but always interesting — and a word for the man who opened it, the great Jean Couzy.
The Aiguille de l’M, cool air on the north face
The Aiguille de l’M (2,844 m) raises its granite points just above the Plan de l’Aiguille, in the heart of the Chamonix Aiguilles. Its north face has one considerable virtue in a heatwave: it never sees the sun. While the valley was hunting for shade, we’d already found ours.
The walk-in is enough to put some climbers off — but you’re cool and you’re in the mountains: pure joy. The kind of detail that sorts the keen from the sensible.
The Couzy route, and a word on Jean Couzy
The Couzy route follows a logical depression to reach the base of the East summit, which you then climb on its south-west side. The climbing is superb: corners, cracks, laybacks… and even a short, slightly overhanging section, just to get the arms warm. Never extreme, but always interesting. Hats off, Mr Couzy — and picturing the first ascent in mountain boots, real respect. Graded TD-, over about 250 metres of granite.
A word on Jean Couzy (1923-1958). An aeronautical engineer and an exceptional alpinist, he took part in the first ascent of Annapurna in 1950 — the first 8,000er in history — then, in 1955, made the first ascent of Makalu (8,463 m) with Lionel Terray. He opened countless routes in the Alps and the Dolomites, often with René Desmaison. He died in 1958 in the Dévoluy, struck by rockfall while opening a new route. To climb his line is, in a small way, to pay tribute.
Our climb, 8 August 2026
From the Plan de l’Aiguille
We set off from the Plan de l’Aiguille, the mid-station of the cable car. The approach wakes the legs up, but every metre gained towards the shade of the north face is a metre won against the heat.
On the route: corners, cracks and a little layback
You link the pitches on honest rock. The line reads well, the climbing is playful, and that short overhang turns up right on cue to remind your forearms they’re on the clock.
At the summit
At the top, Chamonix and the Aiguilles Rouges spread out below, the Mont Blanc massif right across. The kind of view that makes you forget the walk-in.
The descent: the new line of rappels
We chose to descend the new line of rappels, recently equipped by the ENSA and the PGHM. It’s steep! One concrete tip: on the first rappel, go straight down in line with the anchor — not out to the right — or reaching the next station becomes acrobatic. Then it’s back via Montenvers to close the loop.
Route facts
| Summit | Aiguille de l’M, 2,844 m — Chamonix Aiguilles (Mont Blanc massif) |
| Route | Couzy route, north face |
| Grade | TD-, ~250 m of granite climbing |
| Style | Corners, cracks, layback, short overhanging section |
| Start | Plan de l’Aiguille (Aiguille du Midi cable car, mid-station) |
| Aspect | North face, in the shade — ideal in hot weather |
| Descent | New line of rappels (ENSA / PGHM), steep — then back via Montenvers |
| Tip | First rappel: go straight down in line with the anchor (not right) |
| Gear | Nuts and cams, slings, double ropes, helmet |
Choosing the north face on a heatwave day is already mountaineering: reading the conditions, picking the right aspect at the right time. That’s how we guide, and the essence of the high mountains around Chamonix.
Frequently asked questions
What is the grade of the Couzy route on the Aiguille de l’M?
The Couzy route is graded TD-, for about 250 metres of granite climbing: corners, cracks, layback and a short slightly overhanging section. Never extreme, but sustained and varied.
Is the Couzy route a good climb in a heatwave?
Yes: the north face of the Aiguille de l’M never sees the sun. It’s a reliable choice for climbing in the cool during a heatwave, when the south faces are unbearable.
How do you get down from the Aiguille de l’M?
Via the new line of rappels recently equipped by the ENSA and the PGHM — it’s steep. On the first rappel, go straight down in line with the anchor (not to the right) to reach the next station easily. Then head back via Montenvers.
Who was Jean Couzy?
A great French alpinist (1923-1958), an aeronautical engineer. He took part in the first ascent of Annapurna in 1950 and, in 1955, made the first ascent of Makalu (8,463 m) with Lionel Terray.
Read also: The Midi-Plan Ridge · Pic de Bure, Desmaison Route
Nuyama is a mountain-adventure agency, born in Chamonix in 2019. You don’t consume a destination here: you live a crossing. From the rock routes of the Chamonix Aiguilles to the 4000ers of the Alps, we go with those who want to experience something real, guided by people rooted in this terrain for years. Discover who we are and mountaineering with Nuyama.